How to Add Satin Binding to a Double Lush Velvet Blanket

Published March 2026

Join Tammy as she shows you how to make a beautiful, soft baby blanket with perfectly mitered satin binding in this step-by-step tutorial. This Double Lush Velvet Satin Binding Blanket tutorial will guide you through attaching satin binding to Double Lush Velvet fabric, creating neat mitered corners, and finishing with a secure zigzag stitch. You will learn the secret to creating flawless mitered corners on satin binding and tips for working with specialty fabrics like minky and satin for a professional finish.

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In this video, you'll learn:

• Why binding ends are cut deliberately uneven — shorter on the back, longer on the front — and how that extra length becomes your topstitching reference.
• How Wash-Away Wonder Tape temporarily tacks slippery satin and Double Lush in place before a single stitch goes in.
• The mitering sequence for each corner: a measured stitching line, backstitching about an eighth of an inch short of the point, and using a Clover Point Turner to pop it clean.
• How to join the binding's two ends into one continuous strip without a twist, using a half-inch offset and a diagonal seam.
• Why a wide zigzag, worked corner by corner with the needle stopped and pivoted, is what finally locks the binding down on both sides at once.

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Introduction

This little cuddly blanket pairs a soft Double Lush background with a wide satin binding and neatly mitered corners — a finish that looks a lot harder than it is once you know the sequence. Both fabrics are stretchy and a little slippery, so the whole process leans on a few tricks for keeping everything in place before and during stitching.

Taming Slippery Fabric Before You Stitch

Both the satin binding and the Double Lush background want to shift and stretch under the presser foot, so getting them to hold still starts before you ever sew.

1. Use Wash-Away Wonder Tape to temporarily tack the binding in position along the edge — it holds slippery fabric still without pins working their way loose, and washes out completely once the piece is finished.
2. Wonder Clips hold everything in place around corners and curves where a pin alone tends to let fabric shift.
3. Take the time to fully pin an edge before sewing it, rather than trying to sew it unpinned — on fabric this stretchy, an unpinned edge will walk on you as you go.

Why the Binding Ends Are Cut Uneven

Before you get to mitering, the binding strip itself is prepared with a deliberate asymmetry.

1. Leave the binding shorter on the back of the blanket and longer on the front at each starting and ending point.
2. That extra length on the front becomes your reference for topstitching later — you'll fold and match it against the back edge rather than measuring from scratch.

Mitering Each Corner

Every corner follows the same sequence, worked on the back first and then the front.

1. Measure and draw your stitching line corner to corner, using a small ruler to mark exactly where the blanket's edge falls underneath the binding.
2. Start with a backstitch, sew along your drawn line, and backstitch again at the very end — but stop about an eighth of an inch short of the actual corner point rather than sewing all the way to it.
3. Trim the seam allowance down to about an eighth of an inch before turning the corner right side out, being careful not to cut through your stitching.
4. Use a Clover Point Turner to work the corner out fully and pop it into a clean, sharp point — work from both sides of the seam to coax the fabric all the way into the point.
5. Repeat the same sequence on the front of that same corner, remembering that the front stitching line stops short of the point in the same way the back one did.

A small ridge or slight pucker right at the corner is normal. Because of the seam allowance folded up inside a mitered corner, a little bit of extra bulk right at the point is expected, not a sign anything went wrong.

Joining the Binding Ends Into One Continuous Strip

Once three corners are mitered, the binding's two loose ends need to be joined into a single continuous loop before the final corner is finished.

1. Fold one end up and bring the other end in to enclose it, checking that the strip isn't twisted before you commit to a seam — open the fold slightly and confirm it reads as one continuous piece of binding, not two ends crossed over each other.
2. Measure a half inch in from the raw edge and draw a corner-to-corner diagonal line, the same way you would for joining any binding strip.
3. Sew directly on that diagonal line, then trim the excess seam allowance to about an eighth of an inch.
4. Match the back raw edge first and pin it down, then fold the front edge down to match and pin it separately — going through all layers together where the two pinned sections meet.

Locking It Down with a Wide Zigzag

With every corner mitered and the ends joined, a wide zigzag stitch is what finally secures the binding to the blanket on both the front and back at once.

1. Switch to a wide stitch plate and foot, and set a wide zigzag — a 6.0mm width and 2.5mm length works well on this weight of binding.
2. Position your stitching so one side of the zigzag catches the background fabric and the other side catches the satin binding, locking both layers together in a single pass.
3. Start and end each stitching run with a few straight stitches, forward and back, to lock the zigzag in place before and after switching stitch types.
4. At each corner, stop with the needle down on the left, pivot the piece, and continue zigzagging around — no need to stop and restart your thread at every corner.

None of the individual steps here are difficult on their own — it's the combination of slippery fabric and a mitered corner that makes this finish feel tricky. Taping, clipping, and pinning generously before you sew is what actually makes the difference, and it's worth every extra minute for a binding this soft and this clean.

Grab your Double Lush and satin binding, a Clover Point Turner, some Wash-Away Wonder Tape, and any other notions you need to make one of your own.

For personal use only, not for commercial production. No part of this pattern may be reproduced, shared, or distributed in any form unless given express written consent by Shabby Fabrics. Not to be used with any online classes or video tutorials other than the official Shabby Fabrics tutorial. All designs, photographs, and images are protected by federal copyright law. All rights reserved.